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Old 11-03-2015, 09:28 PM   #1
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Please critique my battery set-up.

My car (S14 with S14 SR) runs like doodoo. I'm wondering if my new battery set-up has anything to do with it. Please see below.

The battery is mounted in the trunk. It's an Odyssey PC925, which has 330 cold-cranking amps.


It's grounded to this former carpet tab, and yes, all paint was sanded off the surface. I plan on making a new ground to the spare tire holder.





The power wire runs through this 150-amp fuse...


And terminates at a distribution block in the engine bay. (I have a plastic cover for the block that was removed for the pictures.)


Hooked up to the distribution block are the power wire from the battery, the power wire from the transmission harness, and the two power wires from the fusebox.

Did I mess something up here?

My next plan is to make a new ground wire and run it to the spare tire hold-down, and see what happens with that.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:59 PM   #2
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Does it start fine? If there's a problem, it would be the ground. An easy way to test is with a long pair of jumper cables. Hook one end to the negative of the battery, hook the other end to a quality ground in the engine compartment. Straight to the motor is best. If it starts and runs better, you need a better ground. If not, you probably have other problems.

Also, does the alternator work? Voltage while running should be 14+.
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Old 11-04-2015, 01:29 AM   #3
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It doesn't start well at all. It usually takes 2 or 3 twists of the key for the engine to sputter to life, even with a fully charged battery. However, it started much more easily- 1 twist of the key with minimal sputtering- when I jump-started it.

I'll test the alternator this weekend and see what's up. Thank you very much for the help!
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:37 AM   #4
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I'm sure your going for a compact battery but that thing is weak. I only use red tops. 1000 cold cranking amps. If it doesn't start it's locked up. Another option is go away from those bus fuses and find a audio store and grab a circuit breaker I use a 225 with a reset button.
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:50 AM   #5
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i'd change the ground location and
definitely downgrade on the fuse, this thing will melt instead of popping if you have voltage fluctuation.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AwesomeO View Post
i'd change the ground location and
definitely downgrade on the fuse, this thing will melt instead of popping if you have voltage fluctuation.
What amperage would you recommend instead of the 150?
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:36 PM   #7
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2 power wires from the fusebox? there should only be one. Are you using a wiring specialties harness? It has the power wire for both zenki and kouki in it and can cause problems if both are hooked up. Also that battery will make the car hard to crank, it just doesnt have enough juice and the sr coilpacks hate voltage drops so with the battery stumbling to tuen the motor and the coils not creating a good spark its just not good. That battery would be good if you have a stereo with amps on top of a standard battery but not a replacement for a full size battery.
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Old 11-05-2015, 01:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnafuPossum View Post
2 power wires from the fusebox? there should only be one. Are you using a wiring specialties harness? It has the power wire for both zenki and kouki in it and can cause problems if both are hooked up. Also that battery will make the car hard to crank, it just doesnt have enough juice and the sr coilpacks hate voltage drops so with the battery stumbling to tuen the motor and the coils not creating a good spark its just not good. That battery would be good if you have a stereo with amps on top of a standard battery but not a replacement for a full size battery.
Yes, I am using a Wiring Specialties harness. Are you referring to the alternator feed wire? If that's what you're talking about, then yes, I hooked up the appropriate wire (being a '95, mine plugs into the side of the fusebox) and I removed the '96-and-up wire.

However, there are two power wires coming from the fusebox, both of which I have on the distributor block. Per the Wiring Specialties instructions, this is correct. Check Step 8 here for verification.

I hate to replace the battery, but I suppose it'll have to be done. Any recommendations on a battery box set-up for a full size battery?
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I hate to replace the battery, but I suppose it'll have to be done. Any recommendations on a battery box set-up for a full size battery?
Taylor aluminum battery boxes look nice & fit full size batteries. Moroso has a cheaper plastic box that is okay for cars with trunks & rear firewalls.

What power distribution bar did you use? It looks like a good option for me in the future.

I would keep that size fuse or go bigger. I use a 150amp Bussman (auto/boat) circuit breaker in front of all electrical stuff on the battery in my s13 & seems to do fine most of the time. Sometimes it's tough to start when hot which makes me want to get a 200amp to allow more flow because the resistance of the wire increases when hot.
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:05 PM   #10
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Another option is go away from those bus fuses and find a audio store and grab a circuit breaker I use a 225 with a reset button.
^this. I use a 150amp in my s13 & probably need a 200-250amp. You can also score them on amazon. Cooper-Bussman make auto & marine-rated breakers for 12v use.
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Old 11-05-2015, 12:42 PM   #11
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Yeah I'm using mine for my subs so it's car audio 12v by 250amp. Got mine at the flea market for want to say $15 no more buying stupid expensive bus or glass fuses it has already paid for itself 10 fold. Say I need to kill my subs. Push of a button. Or wire comes out of the amp or cap cause a spirited drive down back roads. No sweat repair wires push button. So easy.


But onto the battery. I thought the car recommend minimum 350 cca. Plus you lengthen the wires putting more strain on them.
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Old 11-06-2015, 12:36 AM   #12
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Not sure if these will help but i remember in rb swap i had some bad wiaring and my fuel pump would suffer from low power and the rb did not like these so i got a separete relay and hard wiared my fuel pump and bam problem solved...your battery is small and that could be your problem...
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Old 11-09-2015, 12:25 AM   #13
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Updates:

Tested voltages while the car was idling. 14.5 at the battery as well as the distribution block. Looks like my alternator is healthy.

I bought a normal, model-specific battery from AutoZone with 550 CCAs, and it made no difference in how the car started or ran. So I don't think the battery is my issue either.

I made a ground from the intake manifold to the chassis, which made no difference. I plan to make grounds from the head and block to the chassis as well.

My next plan is to make a new ground cable from the negative terminal to the shock tower and/or the spare tire post, and see what difference it makes.

The problem itself is that the motor runs far too rich. It has trouble starting with the throttle closed, and runs rich at all times once it fires up.

I've already replaced the O2 sensor, the coolant temp sensor, and the spark plugs, and I reset my timing. I've tested for boost leaks, found none, and recirculated my BOV for good measure. I also cleaned the MAF.

My thoughts are that it might be my CAS, IACV, a bad fuel filter or FPR, or a leaking/bad injector.

If anyone makes a suggestion that ends up solving the issue, I'll buy you a six pack of your favorite beer and deliver it to you. Not kidding. Help me help you get beer.
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Old 11-09-2015, 03:51 AM   #14
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double check your fuel presure regulator try a fuel gauge to see what kien of presure you have not sure if your smoking ??
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:12 PM   #15
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I dont like beer...your problem is your ground. Run a minimum 4 gauge wire from the negative terminal to the transmission bolts / engine. If that dosnt work run a 0 gauge positive wire straight from the battery to the starter then from the starter to the distribution block.
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Old 11-22-2015, 04:39 PM   #16
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Tried moving my battery back up front. Grounded to the factory location on the intake manifold. The starter had a little more juice, but the motor still struggled to start, and ran like crap once it did.

Also tried grounding to the spare tire holder. No effect.

I'll be testing my MAF, IACV, and TPS with known working units. If you're willing to lend me any of the above for an S14 SR, I'll pay you for your time and gas. (I live in Pearland.)

Any other suggestions, fire away.

I don't think it's an injector/fuel issue, because of how the car acts between 1000-2000 RPM during its first minute of operation. It has almost no power whatsoever, and can barely propel the car forward. After a minute or two of running, this problem suddenly vanishes. This seems to me like it's electrically related.

Last edited by Vapor Trail; 11-24-2015 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 11-22-2015, 06:50 PM   #17
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Have you done a compression test?
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Old 11-22-2015, 09:51 PM   #18
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Yes. Compression was 149-150 across the board.
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Old 11-23-2015, 09:19 PM   #19
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Coil packs maybe? Just taking guesses. I'm curious what fixes the issue since until the temp gauge hits center, my car is sluggish too.
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Old 11-24-2015, 11:22 AM   #20
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My car will start much more readily if I hold the throttle partially open. The FSM's instructions are to check the IACV/AAC, so I have a replacement on the way. I also plan on testing the coil packs just for good measure, but I don't think it's spark related.
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:08 PM   #21
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check tps, may need adjustment?
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Old 11-24-2015, 02:38 PM   #22
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TPS checked out at 0.57 volts when the throttle is closed, and 4.3 volts when fully open. This should be within operating spec, but should the IACV prove fruitless, I'll check out what the FSM has to say about TPS adjustment.
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Old 11-24-2015, 03:56 PM   #23
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Per the FSM, resistance should be around 5 K ohms when released and .7 K ohms when throttle is depressed with range of 5 to .7 K ohms when halfway.

copied from a thread on another website, so don't hold me to these numbers. You gave a voltage reading, test the resistance also. also when testing, slowly open and close throttle to verify no "dead spots" or areas where the resistance jumps high or low.
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Old 11-24-2015, 05:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Per the FSM, resistance should be around 5 K ohms when released and .7 K ohms when throttle is depressed with range of 5 to .7 K ohms when halfway.

copied from a thread on another website, so don't hold me to these numbers. You gave a voltage reading, test the resistance also. also when testing, slowly open and close throttle to verify no "dead spots" or areas where the resistance jumps high or low.
Thanks for the info, I'll definitely look into that. I tested the TPS exactly as you described, slowly throughout the full range to verify a linear increase in the voltage. I'll do the same for the resistance and see what comes up.
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Old 11-26-2015, 05:02 PM   #25
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Replacement IACV installed; no change. The FSM specifies several procedures for an engine that is hard to start when cold. I'll be looking into those- the CAS, spark, and fast idle cam.
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