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Old 10-27-2011, 11:00 AM   #1
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Some quick advice for the 240 Owner

Some quick advice for the 240 Owner



I've noticed a large amount of stock cars blowing up lately, and I've come to a few conclusions/pointers that I'd like to share:

-You should do an oil change before you spend that $20 on flat blacking your car.

-KA-T is cool, but you might want to spend $50 on a gasket set to stop that KA from leaking if you expect it to last, before you spend $50 on an ebay intercooler.

-I know, I know. You're saving for an SR. But, don't you think you should put a $40 waterpump and a $10 thermostat in your car before you have to spend $500 on another KA?

-Going through 5 sets of used tires in about 3 months is not cheaper than buying one set of new tires. I know money is tight with everyone, but think ahead. Especially if your car is a daily driver, why risk crashing your only ride riding on shit tires?

-Don't buy a loudass exhaust if your motor is completely stock. Just makes you look like an idiot, especially if said motor runs like shit.

-Before you buy coilovers, make sure the rest of your suspension is in decent shape. Check your ball joints, tie rod ends, and subframe bushings. You would be surprised how much better your car will handle or ride with just those things replaced.

-Ebay parts suck. Don't buy them. Ebay coilovers suck, and IMO are just an accident waiting to happen. I've installed countless sets for people, and I honestly feel bad about myself everytime I do.

-If you have a hole in your radiator, or are leaking coolant, get that fixed before you lower your car.

-If your car is pissing oil, instead of putting atleast a quart a week in for months, figure out where the leak is coming from, and fix it.

-Also, remember to burp the coolant system. Don't just add water and go. Alot of people have different methods. I do this. Remove rad cap, fill with water, crank car. Set the heater on hot, and the mode on foot/defrost, and let it run and add water until you dont see any bubbles at all at the cap, then crack the bleeder screw, and wait for strait water to come out, then close that, and put the cap back on, and you shouldn't have any over heating problems. And just for the record, I always do a 50/50 water/coolant mixture. Alot of people like different ratios, but I've never had a problem with a 50/50 mix.

-Also, if your coolant is super dirty, spend the $10 on a coolant flush kit at autozone. It's a little kit that comes with t-fittings that you install on the top coolant hose. You install the T, hook it to a hose, undo the radiator drain plug and cap, turn on the hose, and just let the car run until clean water is shootin out of the radiator. You'd be amazed at how dirty the coolant in some of the S13's I've picked up was.

-When it comes to buying oil, just run the recommended weight from Nissan. And don't put synthetic in a motor with tons of miles. Not only is it a waste of money on oil, but more than likely, you're car will develop ticks and leaks that it didn't have before.



I also made myself a little list of what I do on any used car I buy that I plan on keeping for a while. It's anywhere from $100-$225 depending on the car, but can potentially save you a ton of money in the long run.

-New Belt (if needed)
-New Waterpump
-New thermostat. I personally like Fail safe ones, just cause if they lock, they lock open.
-Go ahead and do an oil change, tranny fluid change, and coolant flush.
-New Fuel Filter
-New plugs, as well as a new distributor cap and rotor. If your car has 200k+ on it, and you think they are the original spark plug wires, go ahead and get some new ones.
-Check all accessory belts on you're car. Last think you want is the waterpump belt to break on the highway and not notice.

If my price list is the same as it was a year or two ago.

For a water pump ($36) Thermostat ($10), plugs ($10), Fuel filter ($12 for a Z32), dizzy cap and rotor (I forget off the top, but Im pretty sure its less than $20 for both) All belts should be less than like $30. Oil and filter is another $20 for Valvoline and a Purolator filter.

Thats right around $120 for most of the routine maintenance that people overlook on their cars when they buy them. And most of the time, its the lack of routine maintenance, IE, waterpump seizing/thermostat locking that causes most engine damage, or low oil, or the wrong weight oil.


I know, it kind of sucks to spend that much the second you bring a car home

Basically what I'm trying to say is this.

I know times are tight, but I'd rather have a stock car that has maintenance up to date on it, than a modded car I worry about blowing up because of shit maintenance. nd its better to spend $100 now, than $500 later. I mean, really I am super anal about replacing thermostats. Its a $8 dollar part most of the time, than can save you atleast $200 doing a headgasket job yourself, or $600 having someone else do it.

So with that being said, if you want your daily drifter to be reliable, do some fucking maintenance before you attempt to modify it. Everyone wants a car with dope wheels and a sick stance, but that doesnt do you too well when its sitting in your driveway because the motor blew.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:07 AM   #2
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ive done all that in the last 2 months just need someone to replace my timing chain.my car is at 176K maintnance is extremely important.
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:11 AM   #3
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ive done all that in the last 2 months just need someone to replace my timing chain.my car is at 176K maintnance is extremely important.
ets13 did set my timing chains im pretty satisfied with his work
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:12 AM   #4
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Mastertech or whhhhattt?? lol
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:16 AM   #5
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Mastertech or whhhhattt?? lol
not even bro just personal experience and u kno this brah
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:29 AM   #6
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not even bro just personal experience and u kno this brah
Yeah i know, cool
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:38 AM   #7
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This should have been the FIRST POST EVER ON HERE!
I would suggest checking your brakes as well... And dont be cheep and just replace the pads if you dont replace the rotors at least have them turned!
And clutch master and slave!
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:50 AM   #8
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Mastertech or whhhhattt?? lol
Fuck yea man!!! I always wanted a gewd reliable master mechanic to take my 240sx to n now my dream has come true! Lol n esteban you have TWO motor mounts dawggg
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:54 AM   #9
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Forgot a important one, get a dam alignment lol
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Mike, what percentile did you graduate in from high school?
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i swcored top 3% of dropouts
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vIn@dRiFt@" View Post
Fuck yea man!!! I always wanted a gewd reliable master mechanic to take my 240sx to n now my dream has come true! Lol n esteban you have TWO motor mounts dawggg
lol yea man but my motor mounts are fuckd 2 im pickin up some circuit sports motor mounts next paycheck for sure
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Old 10-27-2011, 11:56 AM   #11
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Forgot a important one, get a dam alignment lol
true and thats why where here to help each other out thanks
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Old 10-27-2011, 12:36 PM   #12
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This is Houston Fuck the thermostat.
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Old 10-27-2011, 01:23 PM   #13
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This is Houston Fuck the thermostat.

that's arguable.. especially since it's about to winter too.
sure it's hot in Houston most of the time but you're motor is designed to run at "operating temp", and if it take a long time to get there it's just not good for it.
Also the thermostat acts as a cooling "timer", i guess you could say.
example:
what we already know.. your motor is hot and you have hot coolant exiting the motor, going through your radiator and putting cooler coolant back into you're motor, right?
what if it's extra effing hot and your fan(s) aren't working well or you're in stop and go traffic only going 2mph?.. not very much air is passing through your radiator to carry the heat away.. if you don't have a thermostat: hot coolant will exit and hot coolant will go right back into your motor and can cause you to over heat anyways..
so, the thermostat acts a "timer" to give your radiator a chance to cool the coolant as much as i can before your motor gets too hot, then it will open right before the point of over heating.. thus giving your motor fresh, cool coolant.

so, it sounds pretty cool to just ditch the thermo but that's b/c most people think it's only purpose it to warm the engine up initially.

All in all, Imo, there is a reason why every car manufacturer puts a thermostat into their vehicles.

But like our friend said, it's smart to get one that locks open if you ever encounter any problems

not trying to be rude, just stating some facts

-------------------------------

Btw, this is a much needed write up for MANY people. Thanks

also, personally I think, with the higher mileage 240's (w/ ka's) I would recommend 10w-40 conventional oil in the summer and 10w-30 in winter.
I'v been very happy using Lucas oil stabilizer w/ every oil change(with noticeable improvement). I also do a motor pre flush every 2 or 3 oil changes,

it's also not a bad idea to upgrade to a dual core radiator.
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:05 PM   #14
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Na son my KA-T runs 180 all the time, even with A.C. on. and ur right Nissan engineers designed a engine to run with a thermo. But my set up dont need one so I take that shit off. Methanol injecton helps on cooling if you didnt know.
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:13 PM   #15
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Timmons don't give tech advice.
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Mike, what percentile did you graduate in from high school?
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i swcored top 3% of dropouts
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Old 10-27-2011, 03:34 PM   #16
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wow I am glad i actually listened to people and my gut on doing somethings
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Old 10-27-2011, 05:17 PM   #17
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Timmons don't give tech advice.
Ok mom, lets see how wrong I am about what i just wrote..

anybody else want to throw down their 2 cents b/c MamaPossum obviously does?

With people like TURBOMAN, he's good b/c he has the correct equipment and knowledge to keep his 240 rolling and he's joking. But since this is an informational thread and people will believe and do anything they read, someone might as well give some real advice.. it just happened to be me.

so here's what i recommend to you Mamapossum: Become a MOD and block my posts b/c according to you, they're all vulgar... problem solved
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:13 PM   #18
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Typical h240, a decent thread turned into a pissing match
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Its a 240, it'll never be worth putting money into it. Just build what you want.
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Old 10-27-2011, 06:17 PM   #19
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^^^ yeah, sorry about that. I just hate it when guys try riding me like a $10 whore (especially this kid). If people weren't a-holes in the first place then there would be no need to reply in such a manor.
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:05 PM   #20
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also remember that if your car is always running below normal operating temp its going to be running rich constantly
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Old 10-27-2011, 07:06 PM   #21
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Talking

Oil catch cans.
Ignition upgrade boosters such as dli or cdi Msd etc.
Can improve gas consumption.
Coolant swirl pods(bleeder tanks) make refill radiators times
Nismo thermostats are awesome.
I use billion and my temps stay with in the 165-178f
This thermostats are made so if they go faulty they stay open and doesn't stay stock shut like oem do.
Good upgrades that doesn't hurt you wallets are swAping oem brake lines to braided types.
Wow the list can go on and on.
Awesome thread guys
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:37 AM   #22
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Typical h240, a decent thread turned into a pissing match
lol no shit uhh
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:38 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240Timmons View Post
that's arguable.. especially since it's about to winter too.
sure it's hot in Houston most of the time but you're motor is designed to run at "operating temp", and if it take a long time to get there it's just not good for it.
Also the thermostat acts as a cooling "timer", i guess you could say.
example:
what we already know.. your motor is hot and you have hot coolant exiting the motor, going through your radiator and putting cooler coolant back into you're motor, right?
what if it's extra effing hot and your fan(s) aren't working well or you're in stop and go traffic only going 2mph?.. not very much air is passing through your radiator to carry the heat away.. if you don't have a thermostat: hot coolant will exit and hot coolant will go right back into your motor and can cause you to over heat anyways..
so, the thermostat acts a "timer" to give your radiator a chance to cool the coolant as much as i can before your motor gets too hot, then it will open right before the point of over heating.. thus giving your motor fresh, cool coolant.

so, it sounds pretty cool to just ditch the thermo but that's b/c most people think it's only purpose it to warm the engine up initially.

All in all, Imo, there is a reason why every car manufacturer puts a thermostat into their vehicles.

But like our friend said, it's smart to get one that locks open if you ever encounter any problems

not trying to be rude, just stating some facts

-------------------------------

Btw, this is a much needed write up for MANY people. Thanks

also, personally I think, with the higher mileage 240's (w/ ka's) I would recommend 10w-40 conventional oil in the summer and 10w-30 in winter.
I'v been very happy using Lucas oil stabilizer w/ every oil change(with noticeable improvement). I also do a motor pre flush every 2 or 3 oil changes,

it's also not a bad idea to upgrade to a dual core radiator.
about the oil part lol at 10w40 i still used 5w30 all year round and dont have n p
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:49 PM   #24
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Old 10-28-2011, 05:14 PM   #25
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I also run non synthetic.
But I change my oil after every 500 miles or trackdays.
Gauges are also a plus.
I did change the fuel filters asap and changed the fuel filter everytime I changed my spark plugs.
Changing diff fluids.
Flushing the radiator.I don't use coolant.I use water wetter and filterd water.summer and winter.
Those magnet sump plugs are awsome.
I changed the washer seal everytime I changed the oil.
I don't use it now since I have paterson oil filters etc...
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